Lamu is a magical place, untouched by mass tourism, it’s like you’ve been transported to a time long ago. Lamu is a small archipelago that lies on the Indian Ocean. “Pole Pole,” Swahili for slowly, slowly is the motto of this town.
As soon as you get there you can take a deep breath in, find time to relax, and forget the stresses of daily life. Life moves at a calmer pace here where people lounge with their friends, eating at a restaurant feels like a personal experience, and there’s plenty of time for long strolls on the beach.
I got to explore this enchanting place a couple years ago, when visiting a close friend that lives in Nairobi. She told me that she had fallen in love with Lamu. After getting the chance to go with her, it was clear why this place had captured her heart.
As soon as we arrived at the small airport, we were greeted immediately by a man who had been sent to escort us to our lodging. He put us on a boat that would take us across the sea to Lamu town. As no cars are allowed in Lamu, the major forms of transportation are boats, dhows (sailing boats), and donkeys. Boats are crowded with passengers from the airport as they make their way across the glimmering blue sea to the mainland.
Once you get off the boat in the Old Town, you will notice the beautiful white buildings and the winding alleyways that go between them. Lamu has an interesting historical past with Swahili settlers influenced by Ottomon explorers and Turkish traders. Walking through the streets, I was taken in by the architecture of the buildings. Buildings are made of stone, mosques are humble yet beautiful, and our lodge had verdant plants throughout.
One aspect that was noticeable from the moment we arrived was how friendly and kind the people of Lamu were. Yes, of course, there were some people who chatted with us in order to try and sell something, but for the most part everyone was genuinely kind. We met a boat driver, who agreed to pick us up and take us wherever we needed to go throughout our stay in Lamu.
We stayed out late one night and he was willing to leave his house just to take us home. One day, we took a dhow for a tour and it rained and poured. The men driving the boat didn’t complain, instead they laughed with each other, turned on music, and danced. Another time, we were walking through the streets and a kind woman was standing in her doorway. She allowed us to take pictures of her children and we talked about our lives. Even during a short stay, you can tell the locals’ lives are rooted in compassion and finding beauty in simplicity.
Our time in Lamu was filled with meandering through the maze of streets, exploring the adorable shops, sailing on dhows, and taking yoga classes in adorable courtyards. When I travel, I tend to cram activities into my day to ensure that I fit everything in, but here in Lamu my attitude changed. I took time to enjoy the simpler things. I spent time with my friend having deep conversations, listening as the Call to Prayer rang out, and taking in all of the beauty that surrounded us.
It’s no wonder that my friend traveled to Lamu numerous times while living in Kenya. Visiting here is like entering a different world, one where the people are kind, the sunsets are mesmerizing, and the pace of life is much slower. If you have the chance to visit, you should take it. Remember just take everything pole pole.
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